In 2013, six independent bakery-cafes opened in Singapore within a few months of each other. All of them centred on artisan bread, and they arrived soon after the Orchard Road chains had built a following for European-style loaves.
The six were Artisan Boulangerie Co, Bakery Artisan Original (B.A.O), Anthesis, Bread King, The Bread Table and Craft Bakery & Cafe. Several tried to stand apart from the chains by baking to order or by following one baker’s own tastes. The details below are from 2013 and are not current listings.
The scene they walked into
The newcomers were opening alongside well-known names such as Maison Kayser, Paul, Tiong Bahru Bakery and Baker & Cook. The independents did not see the chains as a reason to hold back.
The co-owner of Craft Bakery & Cafe expected more such places to follow. He linked the trend to the rise of coffee joints and predicted cafes with specialities of their own. The head baker at Anthesis said the bakery could adapt loaves for diners who avoid wheat, or make multi-grain and herb breads for the health-conscious.
The six, as they were in 2013
Artisan Boulangerie Co
The first of the six was a 4,000 sq ft cafe at 118 Killiney Road, open 8am to 10pm daily. Its executive chef, Eran Mayer, had left a bakery business in Paris for a “new challenge” in Singapore. He used French flour from a mill in Chartres and fermented the breads for at least 12 hours.
The range ran from baguettes and sourdough to croissants and pies, priced from S$2 to S$10 in 2013.
Bakery Artisan Original (B.A.O)
This was a collaboration between the chef-owner of Patisserie G and a French pastry chef. Its retail outlet was at CT Hub on Kallang Avenue. A baguette cost S$2.50 and a croissant S$2.80, and buns ran from S$2 to S$3.50 in 2013.
The bakers planned breads with seaweed and squid ink, and with kimchi. They also offered custom orders. The breads had first been sold at The Providore cafe at Mandarin Gallery.
Anthesis
This 70-seat cafe at Robertson Quay put bread ahead of coffee. Diners could order bread with house-made preserves (S$6 to S$8 in 2013) or a three-bread platter with cheese, hummus and jams (S$14). Tuna tataki on bread with avocado salsa cost S$18.
Tarts and cheesecake were priced from S$4.50 to S$6.90. The co-owner wanted to develop a menu pairing breads with mains and starters. Dogs were welcome in the alfresco area.
Bread King
Tucked into the Burghley Squash and Tennis Centre in the Serangoon Gardens area, this was a deliberately neighbourhood-style bakery. Its Brazilian-Japanese owner chose the plain name over a French one. He had trained in French bakeries and was preparing for a life after his IT consultancy career.
Batches came out every three hours. In 2013, croissants made with Brittany butter cost S$3, pain au chocolat S$3.50 and an Emmental cheese roll S$4. Sandwiches started at S$9.50, and the coffee beans were roasted by the owner.
The Bread Table
Set in the premises of a bao shop on Jalan Kuras, off Upper Thomson Road, it was run by a former IT engineer who took up baking. He had learnt the baguette in a Hanoi bakery in 2005 and took a professional course in New York in 2011.
Between 15 and 18 breads were on offer in 2013. They included sourdough with cheese or walnut (S$8.50), an Italian potato bread (S$3.80) and a French onion loaf (S$1.80). Cakes and pastries were planned for later.
Craft Bakery & Cafe
Siblings ran this Lorong Mambong cafe, which grew out of their dessert bar 3-Inch Sin. It offered croissants (S$2), chocolate doughnuts (S$2.40) and a two-cheese pizza bread (S$3.50), plus pastas and pizzas. A waffle sandwich with maple-caramelised bacon and green apple slaw cost S$11.50, and a molten lava cake S$9.50.
What became of them
Artisan Boulangerie Co is the one whose later growth is clearly documented. Its Killiney Road shop was the flagship of 2013, and the bakery went on to open multiple outlets across the island, with croissants priced from about S$3.20 at one later point.
For the other five, no recent confirmation of their trading status could be found from an official channel or an established outlet. Addresses, hours and menus from 2013 are therefore best treated as history. Anyone planning a visit should check with the bakery directly first.