Sean Lim, chef-owner of Sin Lee Foods, shared a seven-step method for making salted egg yolk sauce at home. It is a big-batch recipe built on a blender and a microwave, not a wok.
What goes in
The recipe lists these quantities:
- 550g salted duck egg yolks
- 600g unsalted butter, softened at room temperature and cut into six cubes
- 270ml full-cream milk
- 5g white sugar
- 5g salt
- 5g chilli powder
The quantities are large. The yolks and butter make up almost all of the sauce, and the sugar, salt and chilli powder are only a few grams each.
The method
- Heat the salted egg yolks in a microwave oven on high for two minutes.
- Mash the yolks into a soft paste and set aside.
- Prepare the softened butter. The recipe calls for it cut into six cubes, and the mashed yolks are combined with it.
- Mix thoroughly for two minutes.
- Add the milk, sugar, salt and chilli powder.
- Stir for two minutes until well mixed.
- Blend in an electric blender for up to three minutes, until the mixture is smooth and runny.
The cooking is short. The microwave replaces the usual steaming of the yolks, and the blender replaces the frying-pan stage. The result is a smooth, pourable sauce.
Tips and variations
Salted yolks vary in saltiness from brand to brand, so check the sauce before you add any extra salt. Other home recipes treat the salt and sugar as a guide only.
The butter should be soft before you start. Cold butter will not blend evenly with the warm yolk paste.
Many home versions use a frying pan. Cooks steam or microwave the yolks, mash them, then cook them in melted butter until they foam. They finish with curry leaves and chilli padi. Time Out Singapore’s 2016 version, from a chocolatier, uses cream instead of milk. It suggests a ratio of one part cream to two parts yolk for a runnier sauce, or one to three for a thicker one. That recipe also serves the sauce over salted vanilla ice cream or as a dip for fries.
A smoother texture is the usual goal. Mash the yolks well, or use a blender or food processor, as Lim’s recipe does. Some cooks also use margarine in place of butter. If you do, they recommend adding cream or milk to keep the sauce rich.
Why this sauce took off
Preserving eggs in salt goes back to the 5th century AD, according to the Michelin Guide, which cites the Chinese agricultural text Qimin Yaoshu. The Guide says the sauce is a relatively modern fad that peaked in popularity in the 2010s. It describes the taste as oily-rich, salty and savoury, with a grainy texture. That suits crisp-fried fish, batter-fried shellfish, meats, tofu and pumpkin wedges.
FAQ
Can I use a frying pan instead of a blender?
Yes. Many home recipes cook mashed yolks in melted butter until they foam, then add milk or cream. Lim’s method skips the pan and relies on the blender for a runny sauce.
What kind of eggs does the sauce need?
Lim’s recipe specifies salted duck egg yolks. Curing eggs in brine for over a month turns the yolk bright orange and gives it a concentrated salty flavour and a creamy texture.