When Diego Della Valle announced plans to relaunch Schiaparelli, one name drifted into the speculation: John Galliano. The designer had been out of the spotlight since leaving Christian Dior and his own label in 2011, after using racist language during a drunken argument.
W magazine editor Stefano Tonchi appeared to cool the idea. He said he already knew a little about who would be named, and that it might be fun to see Galliano back at work. He added that it was probably too risky a proposition, at least for America, while still calling Galliano talented.
The relaunch Della Valle had in mind
Della Valle, the Italian entrepreneur behind Tod’s, had acquired the Schiaparelli name in 2006. The house, founded by Elsa Schiaparelli in 1927, had closed in 1954. The revival was deliberately gradual: he then waited several years for the lease on the founder’s original Paris address to become free.
At the time of the Galliano chatter, the plan was to name a designer in September. The first collection was expected at Paris Fashion Week in March 2013. The line was to be expensive and to include accessories and fragrances.
Della Valle described the idea as presenting the brand with all its modernity, representing dreams, art and the most sophisticated things the house could do.
The people who actually took the job
Galliano was never named. The house went through several hands instead. Gulf News noted that in two years collections had come from Christian Lacroix, Marco Zanini and the in-house team. It described the relaunch as a stop-start process rather than a smooth revival.
Zanini presented a couture collection in 2014. Bertrand Guyon, previously at Valentino couture, then led design from 2015 to 2019.
In April 2019, Schiaparelli named Daniel Roseberry as artistic director. He was a 33-year-old Texan who had been at Thom Browne since 2008, most recently as design director of men’s and women’s collections. WWD called him an unexpected choice. He took charge of all collections, projects and image at the Place Vendôme house.
Business of Fashion records that he debuted for the Autumn/Winter 2019 couture season, despite never having worked in a couture atelier. Critics hailed that first collection as fearless.
Where the house stands now
Seven years after his appointment, Roseberry is still credited as the house’s artistic director. His work keeps the founder’s interest in Surrealism. Sculpted bodices, anatomical jewellery and hammered gold finishes have become signatures.
Hollywood has played a large part. In January 2024, WWD reported on red-carpet looks for Dua Lipa, Carey Mulligan and Natasha Lyonne. One was a black velvet bustier dress with gilded bones, inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s 1938 work with Salvador Dalí. Another recreated a design from autumn 1949. WWD credited Roseberry with reinventing the house in under five years, helping the fortunes of the Della Valle-owned brand.
Della Valle still privately controls Schiaparelli, which operates from 21 Place Vendôme.
FAQ
Did John Galliano ever design for Schiaparelli?
No. He was only mentioned in speculation. The creative roles went to Marco Zanini, Bertrand Guyon and, since 2019, Daniel Roseberry.
Who owns Schiaparelli?
Italian entrepreneur Diego Della Valle, who acquired the name in 2006 and still controls the house privately.