Filling in the waterline with eyeliner is one of the quickest ways to make eyes look deeper and more defined. The look was long linked with Singapore actresses Jeanette Aw and Carrie Wong. Both were cited as style references for a smudgy, smoky rim that looks dramatic but still wears easily.
The technique needs very little: a black gel eyeliner and a powder eyeshadow in a similar shade. What follows is the method, and the questions that tend to come up.
What do you need to line the waterline?
Two products are enough. The first is a black gel liner. The second is a black or deep-toned powder shadow to set it.
Choose a liner that glides. The waterline is the delicate inner rim of the lid, and a dry or stiff formula tugs at the skin and can sting. Test the pencil on the back of your hand first. It should draw smoothly with light pressure and without skipping.
A small angled or flat brush helps with setting the colour. Any firm, flat eyeshadow brush will do the job.
How do you apply it, step by step?
- Expose the rim. Use a clean ring finger to press very gently on the lid, as you would when putting in a contact lens. This lets the waterline show a little, so it is easier to reach. Do the same on the lower lid.
- Draw the lower line. Start at the inner corner and trace a thin, steady line along the lower waterline. Blink a few times so some pigment transfers to the upper waterline. This gives a soft, diffused halo, the effect seen in Carrie Wong’s makeup looks.
- Tidy the edges. Go over the eye again with the liner, using small sweeping motions to close any gaps so the line looks continuous.
- Set it. Press a matching shadow over the liner with a flat brush. Black on black gives the strongest finish. A deep blue over black gives a subtle tint.
Why does waterline liner fade, and how do you stop it?
The usual cause is oil on the eyelids. Excess sebum breaks down the liner and moves it around. Powder shadow absorbs some of that oil, much as a loose face powder mattifies foundation.
A few habits help:
- Start with clean, dry lids and avoid heavy eye creams just before makeup.
- Let the liner sit for a few seconds before you blink repeatedly.
- Press the shadow on rather than sweeping it, so the line stays intact.
Waterline liner will still smudge somewhat, because the rim is naturally damp. That softness is part of the appeal. For a sharper result, keep the line on the lash line instead.
Is it a look for every day?
It can be. Keeping the line thin makes it a good fit for daytime, while a heavier layer and more shadow suit the evening. A lower waterline alone gives a subtler look, and adding the upper rim intensifies it.
Always use a product made for the eye area, and keep pencils clean. Sharpen them if they are the sharpenable kind, and replace any liner that dries out. If your eyes become irritated, stop using the product.
Because the colour sits so close to the lashes, the look pairs well with a simple lash curl and a coat of mascara. The rest of the face can stay minimal. The finished result is a glossy, defined rim that makes the eyes the focus of the makeup.